Sunday, February 26, 2012

A matter of "Perspective"-2D ACW buildings

It is a rainy day here in Kosovo for my off day so I decided to tackle my idea of making buildings.  My initial thought was to just make some shapes and paint and label them as top down views.  Then I remembered my grade school art classes and decided to make them look 3D.

Very simple process of cutting the shapes from scrap boxes that were waiting to go in the recycle bin.  Then I sketched out the corners and trimmed them parallel.  I then painted them and added the details making sure to keep all my line parallel.

In the end I am happy for the time being and I did not have to spend any cash or risk shipping fragile models over.  Not to mention my supply of material is unlimited if I decide I need more.

Hope you like....

Simple Battlefield Terrain

While I have been busy painting my new ACW armies I have been pondering what I will do for a battlefield.  At home I have a box full of terrain such as buildings, trees, fences and even some foam elevation.  Here I have none of that.  Having my family mail it to me just does not make a lot of sense for the few times I will be able to use it.

Yesterday I was able to find a basic fabric store on one of our trips off base.  With the investment of about $20 I think I now have an adequate solution that will allow me to bring some basic skirmishes to life without just fighting them on a table top.  I secured a nice large piece of light green(2.5m x1.5m) cloth that will be used for the base terrain and is large enough to drape over some tables at the MWR building.  In the limited time I had I also found some brown corduroy (fields) and dark green (wooded areas).  Sitting in a box was also a pile of short brown shoe strings so I grabbed 10 which will do for fence lines.  Last night I started to lay everything out and realized I should have grabbed another light brown color for roads.  Oh well improvisation is the watch word for any gamer.  I decided to cut up one of my older tan Army T-shirts a I now also have roads.

The only thing that that is currently missing is buildings.  I am still pondering the idea of purchasing some 3D structures, but in the meantime I think some simple cutouts of cardboard will suffice to represent several structures and give a good flavor to break up the landscape.

As mentioned I have also been painting (more like touching up) some of my new 10mm Gordon & Hague ACW troops.  My last post addressed some of the techniques I used to give my confederates more of a Ragged look.  Since then I finished painting the rest of the infantry as well as Arty and Generals. 

The Union I decided looked good with their more uniform appearance.  The only improvement I made was to apply a black wash and then go over with a white dry brush to bring out the highlights.  Overall I am happy with the results.  Today I decided t tackle the union Cavalry.  The men are fine as is IMO, but the horses needed a little work to break up the uniform brown mounts.  I decided to add black, grey and even beige to the mix as well as a multitude of white stockings and some patches of white on the nose.  Again, when finished I went over with a wash and dry brush. Overall I think they look much improved and are ready for battle.

Wednesday, February 22, 2012

Ragged Rebs-Bringing My Armies to Life with Paint

Basic paints and tools
I was pleased to find the Vallejo paints I ordered from Miniature Market in the mail yesterday, so last night I went right to work modifying some of my Gordon & Hague 10mm ACW minis.

As I stated in my earlier post I think the Gordon &Hague figures are great right out of the package for gaming.  As they suggest on their website they are also very suitable for custom work to give them that little extra flare.  Since the series 1 Confederates come in a basic Richmond grey paint scheme I decided to start with them first. 

Out of the package before painting
 There was nothing fancy being done here, I just took one color at a time and painted over hats, blouses and pants to give them a mixed bag look for uniforming.  I then went back with a fine brush and added belts and straps back on that were covered up in the initial process.  Once I was satisfied I mixed up some watered down black to use as a wash.  If I were home I would have used a sepia brown ink, but the black wash did the trick for now.  Finally, I used the larger of the 3 brushes I have to give them a dry brush with dead white.

After Painting

The only thing missing is a clear coat of "Testors Dull Coat" to seal them and protect the paint.  Due to mailing restrictions that will definitely have to wait until I get home.  I have been considering the idea of using the Army Painter dip for these minis instead.  I have seen some pics of very nice results, but have never tried it myself due to cost and my old fashioned ink and dry brush painting.  I may give it a try though, so if anyone has some thoughts on it let me know.  Once they are sealed I will then add some sort of additional flocking to the bases.


I added a couple more regiments the next night following the same methods above:

Your comments and advice are welcome.

Until Next time.....

Thursday, February 16, 2012

Gordon & Hague ACW Troops Arrived

Today I was pleased to find my order from Gordon & Hague arrived all the way to Kosovo.  Initial impression is very favorable as I unpacked the box.  There are couple of figures that seem to have come off the base, but this is easily fixed with a drop of glue.  These are the ACW 10mm pre-painted series one troops that are currently 45% off. 

Union Forces
Confederate Forces
Confederate Arty
Overall the Union troops look great in my opinion.  They are not artistic models, but perfectly fine for the battle field as they are.  The Confederates will definitely need a few paint touch ups to give them that field look vs, the Richmond grey appearance they have now.  No surprise here as this is exactly what I expected and the reason I also ordered a basic set of Vallejo paints and brushes so I can take some artistic license with them.  I think Gordon & Hague recognized the Rebs need a little work as well as the Series two minis which are due out soon have a new butternut paint scheme and the reason the series one are now 45% off.  They even encourage this on their web site and have some nice tutorials on how to make some basic improvements.  Even with the little bit of time it will take doing some touch ups I feel I will still be way ahead on time and cost compared to if I had to paint and mount all of them myself.

Modifying CMD Stand
The only other thing I plan to modify is the Union Command stands.  They currently have a single flag bearer per stand.  I am going to order and extra set of Union CMD stands (twice as many as I need).  Then I will switch the flag bearer from one stand and place the extra union soldier on the one I remove the flag Bearer from.  This produces a set of CMD stands with two flag bearers (National and Regimental colors) and another stand of basic infantry so nothing will go to waste.  The infantry stand will just have an officer on on it which is not a problem.

Unison Cavalry with Skirmishers
Rebel Standard Bearers

When I return home I will hit them all with a coat of Testors "Dull coat" which is common practice for me to seal the figures and remove and shine as you can see on some of the flags.  One other trick I learned with the flags is that I used fabric glue (did not have white glue) to attach the paper flags.  The end result was it created a very durable flag that almost feels like plastic and holds its shape very well.  I will likely make this standard practice in the future.

Future updates will include modifications and play test battle reports.

Tuesday, February 7, 2012

Recently given a "Major Award"

I recently subscribed to another blog "Megablitz and More" and as a result I was given a major award just like The Old Man in the movie Christmas Story.

In light of this I felt it was only appropriate to display such a prestigious award.

King Boris III of Forbodia
From the announcement:


I am pleased to welcome the blog's 100th follower.  In fact, because someone dropped out last week I feel it only fair to award the '100th Follower' prize to both Springinsfeld and afilter.  Welcome to you both.

The prize for this achievement is a framed and signed photo of King Boris III of Forbodia.  Clearly only Springinsfeld and afilter may print copies of this sought after item.....

 Link to the announcement:

Thanks Tim!

Saturday, February 4, 2012

Newest Venture in ACW gaming

This past year I returned to ACW mini gaming when I discovered Regimental Fire and Fury as I posted in a previous blog.  When re-building my armies I went with 10mm scale that I had to paint and base for the most part.  Even though I went with a modest sized force to start with is still took a couple months to complete my armies of Infantry and Artillery to get ready for my first skirmish.  Unfortunately news of my current deployment came about that time, so my armies are now on furlough until I return.

Recently as I explored the web and some of my favorite gaming forums I discovered an exciting new product line in ACW mini gaming, pre-painted ACW armies.  WOW!  If you have read some of my other posts you know I am a fan of the pre-painted play out of the box games like Axis and Allies Minis.  Now someone is making a ACW version.

The company, Gordon and Hague Historical War games, is a small start up created by a fellow gamer and history enthusiast who recognized the need and is trying to fill the gap for gamers like me who love to play, but lack the time to build and paint armies due to other demands in life.  The comapny currently offers a full line of ACW figures which includes Infantry, Cavalry, Artillery, Militia, Scouts, Command stands and Generals for each side.  To top it off the scale is 10mm which will hopefully blend in with my current armies at home.  Apparently things have been going well as they sold out of their inital offerings of Army boxes and are preparing to expand their ACW line up with a series two (New Paint schemes).  They are also looking expand with new historical unit specific figues as well as launch a American Revolution series as well.

Link to Web Site:

Additionally, they offer a set of rules to compliment the ACW minis (Severed Union) as a free down loadable PDF.  At first read they are a nice simple set of rules that would work well for a new gamer or a veteran who just wants something less complex.  The file is very professional looking with an excellent layout full of color pics and exmaples. When printed it makes a nice book that one would expect to pay $15-20 for at a local games shop all for free.

I have been in contact with the company founder and game designer and offered some recommendations to modify the rules slightly which have been well received.  In the coming weeks there will be a updated version made available which will include a Quick Reference Sheet/Player Aid I helped design.

Example from Web Site
Needless to say I could not resist the temptation to place an order and check this product out myself despite being overseas right now.  Based on the pictures the minis look amazing.  They only offer a few basic poses currently, but this is true of many 10mm lines as at that scale there is only so much detail that can be offered.  Besides no ones else is offering pre-painted minis. One thing they offer that I did not have yet is Cavalry both mounted and dismounted.  At 45% off the current Series one blister packs in stock I could not stop myself from buying some as those prices are comparable to unpainted figures.  In the coming weeks they will be re-stocking and offering complete series two army packs again so a new gamer can start playing right out of the box with little to no prep time.  Additionally, the Web site offers some nice tutorials for those that cannot resist the urge to customize their figures.

In a couple weeks I hope to have my order and be able to test play theses rules using some of the modifications I suggested with some of my fellow soldiers and provide the company more feedback.

As with many companies these days they are also on facebook, so you can follow their progress on upcoming lines as well a make suggestions on what you would like to see in the future.

I thought I would be able to stay away from gaming during this deployment, but I guess that was to much to ask.  Besides everyone needs to take a break once in awhile. :)

A full review will be coming your way when my armies arrive.

Friday, January 27, 2012

B-17 over France-Wings of War

The below scenario was developed almost two years ago when Wings of War WWII was still fairly new.  Now Wings of War will be called Wings of Glory by Ares games and is about to release the third set of WWII minis as well as a brand new starter set with updated rules as I detailed in my earlier blog.  My son and I really enjoyed this scenario, so I wanted to make sure I captured it here.

Hope You Enjoy!

B-17 over France


3x ME 109-ME 109s are active once the B-17 reaches the river

P-40-Support which enters play once the B-17 crosses the river on the return trip

Bomb town on far side of River and make it back to friendly skies(Bomber just has to pass directly over the town)

Used the B-17 cards I found on the Web:

I thought this would be fairly even as the B-17 can take alot of punishment and dish it out as well.

Mission started out well with the B-17 scoring several hits on attacking 109s while only taking minimal damage. Germans quickly learned a head on assault is not the prefferred method of attack.

Then the B-17 started to take some serious hits as it made the turn and lumbered along while trying to make it back home.
The Allies were struck a serious blow when the first little friend went down in flames by drawing the explosion the first time it was hit......OUCH!

The tail gunner was effective and scored several hits and was able to splash a ME 109 as it crossed the river.

The 2nd P-40 rushed to the rescue and was able to score some hits along with the Flying Fortress to send a second 109 down in flames

The scenario ended with the third ME 109 scoring several more blows to the Bomber as it barely limped off the map scoring a victory for the Allies. The B-17 was so shot up it was on fire and down to three damage as it left the game. Probably would not have reached base.

Thoughts on improving the scenario:
You do not realize how slow the bomber is compared to the fighters until you actaully play it. Like history the ME 109s were only able to get a couple bursts off before flying past the bomber and having to come back around for another pass. You definately do not want to make a head on attack.

The B-17 is one tough plane capable of taking alot of punishment as well as dealing it out.  Our scenario was close, but mostly because the first P-40 went down early.

Possible changes:
1. Remove explosions from the game...had the B-17 drew one the scenario ends early....or make and explsion do x amount of damage to the B-17 (12?)

2. Remove one P-40....or make both P-40s come into play after the B-17 crosses the river on the return trip.

3. Add a ME109 for the Germans initially , but in time replace it with ground AA emplacements around the town.

Optional  rule I will add: B-17 can have up to 2 fires going at once. If it takes a 3rd fire representing three engines on fire at once it crashes no matter the amount of damage.

Overall a fun scenario that allowes us to incorporate our B-17 into game play we now have 3 and have worked to expand this scenario to include a basic box fomation.

The Planes:
Although this is a scenario for Wings of War none of the planes pictures are from Nexus.  They are all custom 1/200 scale models by AIR200 which I purchase locally from "The Last Square" and painted.  AIR200 planes are sold in 2 packs of fighters and single bombers for a very reasonable price.  They do not have all the detail of the actual Wings of War models lacking clear canopies and propellers, but they fit in well.  The stands are readily availabe from Litko. I do own a complete set of the official Wings of War models, but I find these a very affordable way to increase the size of my airforce and I enjoy painting them myself.
In the future I hope to expand my bomber fleet.  The rumor is that now that Ares games has taken over the Wings of War product line (Now Wings of Glory) that bombers will be releases at some point as originally scheduled by the game designer.  In the meantime you can check out the many customs and scenario ideas at the Aerodrome.

Until next time.....Watch your Six!

Thursday, January 26, 2012

Adding masts to your models

In the past four years I have renewed my interest in naval wargaming.  Intially I was focused on WWII due to the release of the CMG War at Sea  by Wizards of the Coast (WotC).  My WWII flleets are now comprised soley 1/1800 models that come pre-painted made by WotC.   They are not the greatest detail, but not bad either and the selection has steadily improved now that they have released a sixth set the majority of WWII major units are available. 

DKM Graf Spee
WotC (Custom Painted)
 War at Sea was and is a great game and it was excellent at the time as I did not have a lot of modeling time and was easy to teach to my children and get them interested in gaming.  In the last two years my gaming has expanded from the beer and pretzels style War at Sea provides to the more traditional naval war gaming.  I have explored an number of rule sets over the years and finally found a set I really like two years ago called Naval Thunder that covers the periods of Pre-Dreadnoughts through WWII.   

After discovering how much fun it was to game the pre-dread and WWI eras using Naval Thunder  I decided to expand my collection to include fleets for Russo-Japanese War (RJW), the Spanish American War (SPAN-AM), and WWI.  As WotC is the only company I am aware of that produces 1/1800 scale ships I had to decide on another scale to use for my new fleets.  I chose 1/2400 scale because it seems to have the widest variety of models available at affordable prices for building large fleets. 

 Two of my favorite 1/2400 manufactures are GHQ (High Quality metal at a premium price that are readily available) and Panzerschiffe (less detail resin models at a fraction of the price available via mail order).  When building my Pre-dread fleets I decided to go with Panzershiffe as I could buy entire fleets for the cost of a handful of GHQ models as most panzerschiffe model cost $3-5.

Early Attempt with styrene
When painted the Panzerschiffe models looked nice, but were still missing something to give them that wow factor on the gaming table.  I did a bit of research and discovered the nice Houston 1/1000 scale models with full masts and decided I would try to replicate them using styrene rods.  Unfortunately the masts came out looking a little chunky.  After a bit more searching(War Times Journal) I decided to try different sizes of piano wire which was readily available at my hobby shop.

IMO, the results were amazing, so I proceeded to re-mast the ships I had already completed and use the process I developed to mast all my Pre-Dread fleets.

Below is the process I refined over time.

Materials Required:
1. Painted Ship you intend to install masts
2. Wire. I use 0.30 gauge for main mast and 0.15 gauge for spars and smaller masts.
3. Good Wire cutters/pliers

4. Sheet or wide strip of 0.30 thick styrene (used for crows nest) A single sheet does many models
5. Tweezers
6. Pin vise drill
7. Acrylic paints (same ones I used for the ships)
8. Clear coat spray (I use Testers dull coat)
9. Super Glue (I recommend Gorilla glue super glue or zap a cap)
10. File (optional)
11. single hole paper punch

1. Completely paint the ship to the desired scheme to include wash and dry brush.  I usually mount them on the base prior to putting on masts and give them at least one coat of clear coat to protect the paint while handling.  Basically you can start with a completed ship you have already own that is painted.

For this example we will use USS Oregon

Panzerschiffe 1/2400 model

2. Find a picture of the ship in question to get an idea of what the masts look like and scale. I usually use my laptop with a tab open for multiple ships at one time so I can keep working while one model dries. Of course old fashioned books and pictures work as well for those technically challenged.

USS Oregon:
USS Oregon 1898

3. Drill holes in the model at the locations the mast should be placed.  Use a bit the size of the wire you plan to install to ensure a tight fit.  I try to drill almost through the model to provide a deep hole for stability.

4. Test fit the wire in the drilled hole.

5. Either cut the wire to desired length or install a longer piece of wire and then cut to desired height after it is glued in place.   I prefer to cut the wire after installed as it is easier to install.

6. after the wire is test fitted place a small touch of glue on the end of the wire and install in the drilled hole. If not already the correct height cut it now.  If the model is mounted on base be careful as cutting the thick wire can jolt the model enough to dislodge it from the base (I have remounted many a ship because of this).

USS Maine (Before)

Do not press the wire deeper into the hole using your finger as it will likely be sharp and you will impale yourself (many sore fingers) and nothing like blood to ruin your paint job.  Carefully use the pliers being careful not to slip and damage the ship.

7.  Paint the lower mast the desired color.  This is important as the wires glue together much better when one is painted as opposed to the bare wire.

8.  If the mast requires a crows nest/observation platform do the following:

8a- Drill a hole in the 0.30 thick styrene using the drill bit you used for the mast.

8b-center the the hole punch over the drilled hole and punch the chad out which will now have a small hole in the center

8c-fit the chad over the mast and slide it down to the desired point.  I no longer glue them as I found they fit tight enough and the paint will firmly hold them in place.  Extra glue only increases the chance of messing up the model.

8d-paint to desired color.

9. Install the upper mast by cutting a piece of thin wire.  Place a very small drop of glue on the lower mast and attach the thin wire vertically to the lower mast to form the upper mast.  It is good if they overlap more than needed for stability. Again, if the upper mast is longer than desired it can be trimmed to proper height once the glue is set.

10. Paint the upper mast.

11. Attach any spars (cross members) to the mast by cutting spars the desired length and glue to main mast at the desired points.

Hold the cross wires very lightly and do not squeeze the thin wire as it is like a needle and will tend to stick into your fingers.  Also ensure your fingers are free of glue and be patient. As long as one surface is painted they should bond almost instantly.

USS Maine (After)
 Note: when attaching spars/cross members to a mast with a crows nest I tend to glue the larger spar to the underside of the crows nest as it will glue best.  Another good spot to attach a spar is where the upper and lower mast meet. Always use your picture as a guide.  At 1/2400 scale I have found that close looks pretty good and increased stability prevent future repairs.  These are gaming models, so they do not have to be exact.

Note:  when gluing spars to the upper mast I place a bit of glue on the mast and then attach the spar to the mast.   Again, if the mast is painted the wire will glue almost instantly as long as the mast has been painted.

12. When complete and glue is dry finish painting to desired colors.  Then apply wash and dry bush as desired to match the rest of the model.

13. Apply a thin clear coat and you are done.  This is why it is a good Idea to have already clear coated the ship once as you do not want to spray the masts two heavy and get a build up.  One thin coat of Dull Coat will seal them and remove any shiny surfaces.

14. Most importantly take pics and share.

This process has worked very well for me as I now have the complete OoB for RJW as well as most of the SPAN-AM war.  I ran out of time before my deployment to go back and do some of my non-GHQ WWI units.  Tripods will be a challenge, but doable I think.  Obviously this method can be applied to any scale by changing the gauge of the wire appropriately.  I have seen some modelers put single masts on 1/6000 and WTJ is where I received some of my information which is 1/3000 scale.

Examples of finished models:

Be patient and have fun!

Saturday, January 21, 2012

Battle of the Yellow Sea - RJW

The History

The Imperial Russian Navy's(IRN) First Pacific Squadron, commanded by Admiral Wilgelm Vitgeft, had been trapped in Port Arthur by an Imperial Japanese Navy(IJN) blockade since 8 February 1904 as a result of the Battle of Port Arthur.

Attack on Port Arthur
The Japanese laid siege to Port Arthur starting in July 1904.  The Russian command pushed for a sortie to enable the First Pacific Squadron to link up with the Vladivostok Squadron and create a naval force powerful enough to challenge the Japanese fleet. Admiral Vitgeft the commander of the First Pacific Fleet believed staying in port was enough as his battleships could contribute to the land battle in the defense of Port Arthur.  He was hoping to delay the fall of Port Arthur long enough for a relief by the Baltic Fleet which would then form a force capable of overwhelming the IJN in battle.

The Russian high command had other ideas and went to the Tsar in order to force Admiral Vitgeft to abandon Port Arthur and unite with the squadron based at  Vladivostok.  On 10 August 1904, Admiral Vitgeft, flying his flag in the battleship Tsesarevich, began leading his battleships from the harbor.

At 09:55 hours the fleet exited Port Arthur.  Admiral Vitgeft initially set a course to the south in hopes of hiding his intent.  Admiral Togo commander of the IJN fleet had assembled his squadron to intercept and by 1100hrs it was clear that the Russians were heading for the open sea. The Russian squadron consisted of the battleships Tsesarevich, Retvizan, Pobeda, Peresvet, Sevastopol, and Poltava, protected cruisers Askold, Diana, Novik and Pallada, and 14 destroyers.





At about 12:25 the battleship fleets sighted each other at a range of about 11 miles. Vitgeft's battle fleet was headed southeast at 13 knots, while Togo, on an intercepting course came from the northeast at 14 knots. His fleet consisted of Japan's four surviving battleships Mikasa, Asahi, Fuji, and Shikishima, the armored cruisers Nisshin and Kasuga, as well as eight protected cruisers, 18 destroyers, and 30 torpedo boats.




During this time, Admiral Dewa's four cruisers came into view, fast approaching from the south at 18 knots, and Togo attempted to squeeze Admiral Vitgeft's fleet between the two advancing columns.


Just after 13:00, Togo attempted to cross the Russian "T" and commenced firing his main batteries from the extreme range.   Vitgeft and the battleship Retvizan returned fire, but the range was excessive and no hits were scored by either side.   Togo miscalculated his speed when trying to cross the enemy's "T", and the Russians  made a quick turn to port, maintained speed, and increased  range from IJN fleet.  Admiral Vitgeft was again headed for the open sea, and Admiral Togo's pincer gamble failed, the IJN cruisers had to turn quickly to avoid the main battle line, and thus broke contact without having fired a shot. As Togo observed Vitgeft's battle line swiftly move past his own in opposite directions, he quickly ordered each warship to turn about individually, which put his cruisers into the lead, but now parallel with the IRN  battle line.
At about 13:25 hours, again at extreme range Togo's battleships opened fire on Vitgeft's flagship and the Retvizan, hitting the latter 12 times. By about 13:30 hours, the Russian flagship had returned fire, knocking out Togo's wireless communications from extreme range. For nearly half an hour the two battleship fleets pounded each other, slowly closing their range. 
At 14:05 hours the two fleets reached about 3.5 miles; at which time both fleets let loose with their secondary guns. As the fleets continued to pound each other with all available guns, Togo's flagship Mikasa was taking a pounding.  Togo tried to turn to protect Mikasa, but with his radio shot out, he had to rely on flag signals, and radio relays from accompanying warships.
The Japanese cruisers re-established contact with the Russian battle line, but were quickly driven off by their main gunfire. Both battle fleets were maintaining about 14 knots, but again, Vitgeft had managed to get past Togo, and the Japanese were forced to commence a stern chase.

Togo and his staff on Mikasa
By 14:45 hours the Japanese flagship had closed to within about 7 miles of the trailing battleship Poltava, which had been unable to maintain its fleet's 14 knots due to engine troubles. Mikasa and Asahi soon began to pound the Poltava, scoring several hits. However, admiral Ukhtomsky riding in the battleship Peresvet, observed the plight of the Poltava and ordered his division to fall back and help the Poltava, and they began concentrating their gunfire onto the Mikasa and Asahi. With Admiral Ukhtomsky's division firing, coupled with Poltava rejoining of the fight, Mikasa and Asahi began taking too many hits, and upon the urging of his chief of staff, Togo used his superior speed to break contact, race ahead of Vitgeft's fleet, and try to re-establish contact again under more favorable conditions. By 15:20 hours, the range was opened, and the firing had ceased.

As the battleships broke contact, Admiral Dewa with his cruisers attempted to get into action, when suddenly the Russian battleships opened up on him. At about 15:40 hours one shell hit Dewa's cruiser, the Yakumo from a range of over 8 miles; which was well out of range of his guns.   Admiral Dewa wisely decided that his four Japanese cruisers had no business tangling with any Russian battleships.

As a result only Togo's 6 warships (4 battleships and 2 armored cruisers) were chasing Vitgeft's 10 warships (6 battleships and 4 cruisers).   With darkness only 3 hours away, Admiral Vitgeft believed that he had outranged Admiral Togo, and would lose him totally when darkness came. Togo knew this as well, and ordered a 15 knot speed to catch up to the tail end of Vitgeft's fleet. By 17:35 hours Togo's warships had closed to within 3.5 miles of the battleship Poltava, and opened fire upon her. Admiral Dewa also showed up with his cruisers, and Togo ordered all battleships and cruisers to shell the Poltava, hoping to at least sink one Russian battleship. However, the Russian commander, Captain Ivan P. Uspenskiy of the Poltava would not go down meekly, and his crewmen scored several hits on Admiral Togo's flagship Mikasa. At this time, the Shikishima shells loaded inside the became unstable and began detonating inside the gun barrels; knocking out of action one main gun on the Shikishima at 17:45 hours, and two  barrels on the Asahi at 18:10 hours. By 18:30 hours, Togo only had 11 of his original 17 main guns still in action.

 Although the range had dropped to about 3 miles, the secondary batteries were still ineffective, and Poltava and Peresvet although heavily damaged, were still with the Russian battle line. By 18:30 hours, Togo was still having trouble controlling his battleship's gunfire; Shikishima and Asahi were blasting away at the crippled Poltava, Fuji was shooting at Pobeda and Peresvet, while the flagship Mikasa was dueling with the Russian flagship Tsesarevich. No IJN warships were shooting at the Russian battleships Retvizan and Sevastopol, which allowed them to freely blast away at the Mikasa. With darkness only 30 minutes away, the Japanese flagship Mikasa was almost no longer combat effective, and Russian gunfire seemingly becoming more accurate and effective with each cannon shot; the flagship signaled to the Asahi to take over (known as a battle handoff) the shooting upon the lead Russian battleship.   Within 10 minutes of being relieved by the Asahi, Admiral Togo got his lucky break, when at 18:40 hours Asahi fired a salvo into the Russian flagship Tsesarevich, instantly killing

Admiral Vitgeft and his immediate staff, and jamming the flagship's steering wheel. The explosion had wedged the wheel into a port turn, sharp enough so that Tsesarevich heeled over 12 degrees. Retvizan, which was unaware of the situation on the flagship, followed in her wake. By the time Pobeda arrived at the turning point, Tsesarevich had swung around 180 degrees and was heading back into her own line. With no signal to indicate what had happened, the other ships were unaware that Tsesarevich was not only out of control and without its admiral, but was actually without anyone in command at all.

Prince Pavel Ukhtomsky of the battleship Peresvet soon realized that the flagship was out of action, and attempted to gain control of the Russian squadron. But a Japanese shell, falling wide, cut the foremast of Peresvet, preventing the signal flags from being hoisted as usual; they had to be hoisted along the bridge instead. Being thus almost hidden from view, the signal apparently was only seen on Sevastopol, as no other Russian capital ships followed Ukhtomsky's lead.

At the same time Captain Eduard Schensnovich commanding the battleship Retvizan, immediately turned his battleship towards Togo's battleline, charging directly them firing every weapon he had, despite being down by the bow from battle damage. Frantically Togo's battle line shifted their fire onto Retvizan, pounding the warship with every gun, as the range dropped to less than three miles. There were so many shell splashes surrounding the charging battleship, that Japanese gunners were unable to adjust their fire. However, as Togo's battleships were running low on shells, and many of his main guns were out of action, he decided to play it safe, and with the Russian squadron scattered, he turned the fight over to his cruisers and destroyers.

As Togo's battlewagons began their turn, they fired a final salvo, hitting the enemy battleship with several shells, one of which seriously wounded Captain Schensnovich in the stomach. The Retvizan laid smoke and also began to turn away, but the battleship had effectively ended the duel between the opposing pre-dreadnaughts, and had saved the flagship from destruction.   There was little choice but to give up the attempt to reach Vladivostok and to return back to Port Arthur.  This soon proved impossible to coordinate, and many ships wandered off on their own.

 Two hours later, the bulk of the Russian fleet returned to the relative safety of Port Arthur. Five battleships, a cruiser and nine destroyers made it back. The damaged Tsesarevich and three escorting destroyers sailed to Kiaochou, where they were interned by German authorities. The cruiser Askold and another destroyer sailed to Shanghai and were likewise interned by Chinese authorities. The cruiser Diana escaped to Saigon, where it was interned by the French.   Only the small cruiser Novik sailed east around the Japanese home islands to try to reach Vladivostok. However, on 20 August 1904 pursuing Japanese cruisers forced the ship aground at Sakhalin, where it was destroyed by the crew after engaging the Japanese at the Battle of Korsakov.

Damaged and sunk fleet at Port Arthur

The strategic objective was obvious for both sides: breakthrough to Vladivostok with at least a substantial part of the force for the Russians, and preventing this for the Japanese.  Strategically the battle had been a Japanese victory, since the Russian fleet never again attempted to break out into the open sea. By December 1904, the land battles had converged around Port Arthur itself, and heavy artillery would soon be brought to bear on the Russian warships remaining inside Port Arthur; sinking or damaging all of the survivors of the Yellow Sea Battle.

Tactically, the issue is less clear; for the Japanese side, the goal would most likely be destruction of the Russian squadron (or at least the capital ships) without incurring too many losses of their own. This was not achieved. Whether the tactical outcome is considered a draw or a Russian victory depends on what the Russian tactical goal was: causing more significant damage to the Japanese than vice versa (this was not achieved), or forcing the Japanese to withdraw while preserving the Russian squadron as a "fleet in being" (this was achieved).

The Battle Refought
The below account is my first ever attempt at a major engagement using the then new to me Naval Thunder Rise of the Battleship rules.  I had played at cons and also fought the Battle of Ulsan with other experienced gamers.  This time it was me verses my then 13 yr old eldest son meeting on the high seas.  The below account is a testament to how easily this rule system plays out as we had no issues once we had the basic turn sequence down.
Initial deployments:

IJN Battle line poised to intercept the Russian fleet:

IJN Cruiser force shadowing Russian main battle line at a safe distance:

Russian Battle line making a run for safety to escape Port Arthur:

In 1904 the Battle of the Yellow Sea did not last long after the Russian Flagship took a critical hit to the Bridge and the fleet basically broke up in disarray with the survivors retreating back to Port Arthur.  What the Russians did not have in 1904 was a teenage boy in command determined to best his father against the odds.

Displaying keen accumen the Russians choose to engage the IJN forces in parts instead of as a whole in hopes to divide and conquer.  The Russian opening move was to execute a line abreast and engage the IJN Cruiser force shadowing them before they would be forced to face the big guns of the main IJN battle line.The other thing the Russians did not have is the unexplainable ability to roll dice like they were possessed....  Rolling Eyes

The Russian Battle line tore into the IJN Cruisers decimating Chitose in quick order and setting Kagusa ablaze while the fast moving flotilla moved in for a kill.

 IJN reiforcements were on their way, but would they arrive soon enough to impact the battle?
 As the Main Russian Battle line dealt with the IJN cruiser force the Russian Cruisers along with the 2nd flotilla effectively screened the Batttle Line and engaged the other IJN Cruiser force that was closing in.

A heated seperate battle evolved as the two Cruiser forces exchanged salvos while the Main Battle line continued to rake the other IJN cruiser squadron.

Despite the inital Russian Successes (excellent die rolling) the inevitable could not be avoided.  Russian Success depended on their force getting past the IJN Battle line and escaping to the open sea.  While the Russian line was hotly engaged the IJN Battle line was closing the distance.

Soon the two lines were exchanging blows while the cruisers continued to deliver passing shots and cross the rear of the Russian line.

The initial salvos were devastaing for both sides.  Flotillas rushed the two lines in hopes to get off their fish and sway the balance of power.  The Russians had already taken some punishment, but were still giving a good fight.  The IJN struck the first Critical blow forcing the Presviet out of line while the IRN scored two devastaing hits on the Asahi.

Then Just like History the Russian Flag ship was crushed under the ovewhelming fire of the IJN line as they attempted to make a turn back to the East with victory in sight.  With two Battleships out of the fight the Russians could not witstand the withering fire from the IJN Line along with the remaining cruisers that swarmed like sharks to blood in pursuit of the kill.  Only a small Russian Cruiser force was able to make a break for it unscathed.

Like history this day would belong to the IJN.  Unlike history I paid a lot higher price than Togo for this victory over the IRN Squadron commanded by their youthful admiral with a smart mouth.   Fortunately for the Japanese trash talk did not count toward victory conditions.  Had it a Russian victory surely would have been in order. Wink

Not quite the historical results of the actual battle, but that usually tends to be the case with hsitorical wargaming as tabletop captains and admirals will usually stay in the fight much longer than the real life figures ever would have as there is not real loss involved.

Overall a great battle and always a great time gaming especially when I can get my son involved  as sometimes he actually is interested in the history.   Of course it is always that much better when the old man can "school" the youngster. Smile

I hope you enjoyed reading this as much as we did playing. 

Next up the Tsushima.......